Good eats July 22 2000

Our critics’ guide to Atlanta restaurants




American

Aria, 490 E. Paces Ferry Road, 404-233-5208. After yet another redesign, the former Hedgerose Heights is being repositioned as a Buckhead-casual hangout for young, hot entrepreneurs and similarly questing fast-trackers. Gerry Klaskala’s accomplished American cuisine — slow-cooked chicken and beef, soups, grilled meats — and Kathryn King’s dreamy desserts more than make up for the half-baked, weirdly erotic décor by Bill Johnson Studio. --EM

Bacchanalia, 1198 Howell Mill Road, at Huff Road, 404-365-0410. The city’s best restaurant has moved across town and lost not an atom of energy. At once modernist and classicist, the California-influenced cuisine of owner-chefs Clifford Harrison and Anne Quatrano is based on solid technique, simple presentation and fresh, first-quality ingredients. The spare industrial setting fits the food like beurre blanc on fish, while the service, wines and physical comforts leave little to be desired. Star Provisions, the team’s upscale boutique, serves as a combination waiting room, culinary classroom and take-home larder. Don’t miss it. --EM

Breadgarden, 549-5 Amsterdam Ave., 404-875-1166. A quiet bakery with a lot of great combine-it-yourself sandwiches and a few mediocre ones too (look for sog potential). Try the foccacia pizza loaded up with roasted vegetables and plenty of garlic. One of the best chocolate tortes in town can be found here too. --SL

Canoe, 4199 Paces Ferry Road NW, 770-432-2663. Oh, to be up a creek without a paddle here! Cozying up to the banks of the Chattahoochee, Canoe is one of the loveliest restaurants in town, and Chef Gary Mennie’s New American fare is top-notch. Be sure to make reservations — this showboat’s popular. -- SSS

City Grill, 50 Hurt Plaza, 404-524-2489. Located in the historic Hurt building, this is one of the most beautiful dining rooms in the city. The New American fare at this most elegant Peasant Group restaurant has been up and down over the years. You could get lucky. -- SSS

Corner Café, Buckhead Bread Co., 3070 Piedmont Road NE, 404-240-1978. Breads, muffins, pastries and service are better than ever. Sandwiches (egg salad, chicken club, portobello mushroom) are among the city’s overstuffed best. Opens early for breakfast. -- EM

The Earl, 488 Flat Shoals Road, East Atlanta, 404-522- 3950. This menu offers the traditional bar food assemblage, plus healthier alternatives including four vegetarian sandwiches. Burgers are big ‘n’ beefy and the steak sandwich can’t be beat. All sandwiches come with a choice of house salad, red beans and rice, baked potato, fries, pasta salad or beer-battered onion rings. Try the addictive skinny fries. -- SL

Five Sisters Café, 2743 LaVista Road, 404-636-6060. Storefront with rumpus-room décor is neighborhood hub for suave sandwiches served by smiling staffers. -- EM

Floataway Café, 1123 Zonolite Road NE, 404-892-1414. A Southern Chez Panisse from the creators of super popular Bacchanalia with exquisite, inventive dishes made from fresh, often organic ingredients. The stylishly retro décor fits the former-factory setting too well. — EM

The Flying Biscuit Café, 1655 McLendon Ave., 404-687-8888. This Candler Park restaurant, offering affordable, highly uneven cuisine, had an enormous impact on the city’s dining scene when it opened a few years ago. It is still one of the best values in town. The cuisine is New American with just the right touch of levity. -- CBB

Harvest, 853 N. Highland Ave., 404-876-8244. Matching arts-and-crafts furniture, vases, flowers, fireplaces, dramatic curtains and a comfy bar make the Craftsman-style bungalow the perfect venue for chef Justin Ward’s weekday lunch service. Alas, as has been true since the restaurant’s January 1996 debut, the contemporary American cooking is still wildly uneven.-- EM

Heaping Bowl and Brew, 469 Flat Shoals Ave., 404-523-8030. This restaurant in East Atlanta prepares inexpensive, wholesome food with occasional outré touches. It almost always works. But dining here is enjoyable because of the convivial ambiance. Perogies, greens, beans and stew are recommended. -- CBB

Highland Wraps & Pizza Kitchen, 1250 Virginia Ave., 404-872-2562. A mostly takeout operation in the Virginia-Highland neighborhood, this store- front charmer produces decidedly Americanized, albeit notably tasty meat and vegetarian burritos and tacos. -- EM

In the Shade Café, inside the Wish-Fulfilling Tree Bookstore, 2329 Cheshire Bridge Road, 404-634-7411. Juices, sandwiches and light noshes are all fresh and delicious. Plus you get your spiritual high from sniffing the nearby incense. -- CBB

Insignia, Chastain Square, 4279 Roswell Road, 404-256-4040. Accomplished Pacific Rim and American regional cuisine, plus a useful wine list draws customers willing to pay healthy prices. Proprietor David Abes and chef Pete Pavesic are well-trained graduates of Horseradish Grill, Buckhead Diner and the Atlanta Fish Market. The new venture includes a smokers’ porch and a cadre of knowledgeable, enthusiastic servers. — EM

Java Jive, 790 Ponce de Leon Ave., 404-876-6161. “The Cup That Pleases” definitely lives up to its name. The rich, faintly nutty cups of coffee accompany from-scratch biscuits, pecan or gingerbread waffles and well-stuffed omelets and veggie scrambles. Service is personable, reliable and unobtrusive. -- SL

CBB is Cliff Bostock, EM is Elliott Mackle, SSS is Shelley Skiles Sawyer, SL is Shelley Lawrence. For a comprehensive directory of Atlanta restaurants, check out our website at www.creativeloafing.com.






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