Restaurant Review - The beef on Ted’s bison
Burgers ride tall in the saddle at Montana Grill
“Bison is the scientifically correct name for North America’s largest mammal, commonly called buffalo, so nicknamed by early explorers.”
So speaks a perky and unexpectedly astute server who overhears my dining posse debating the difference between bison and buffalo, as we stand huddled together in the entrance of Ted’s Montana Grill on a recent nippy night. We all turn our attention to the far end of the dining room, where the massive head of a buffalo — pardon me, I mean bison — watches over the crowd with a solemn and understandably disapproving expression.
Welcome to the Wild West, as envisioned by Atlanta’s favorite media mogul Ted Turner and his partner, George McKerrow Jr., who founded the Longhorn Steakhouse chain. Their Norcross outpost, in the Forum shopping center off Ga. Highway 141, is the third of five Ted’s to open around the country (there’s also a location in Peachtree City).
Ted’s has a warm, masculine vibe that feels cozy to settle into. Modeled after the Arts & Craft architectural style popular in the early 20th century, the booths are lined with mahogany paneling, the wooden and tile floors have a comfortably worn look, and the lighting scheme emanates an unending twilight.
Ted’s is all about burgers — bison burgers, in particular. And though most of the time I’m highly skeptical about the quality of food served at chain restaurants, I gotta tell you: These burgers are damn good.
Turner is himself a bison rancher, and purportedly feasts on bison meat three or four times a week. The restaurant offers beef and bison, both ground fresh daily according to the menu, and though they charge $1 more for the bison, it’s worth it. Not gamy at all, as one might assume when they envision Turner’s herds charging across his home on the range, the meat is mild, juicy and very lean.
I’ll admit, I’m not a burger purist. There are those among us who feel a hamburger should be eaten only with the traditional tomato, lettuce, ketchup and mustard, and perhaps a thin slice of cheese. With over 20 variations of toppings, Ted’s is highly accommodating to those, such as myself, who like their burgers glopped up.
On my first visit I go straight for the bison variation of the New Mexico Burger ($9), topped with guacamole, strips of Anaheim peppers and Monterey Jack cheese. The burger patty is attractively unshapely, peeking just over the edge of its Kaiser bun. The guac is plentiful and fresh, the amount of cheese is just right, and the peppers lend a smoky note. This is one satisfying burger.
Numerous other tasty variations include combinations of fried onions, bacon, jalapenos, mushrooms, grilled ham and an array of cheeses. The only topping I find I’m not crazy about is the barbecue sauce, found on George’s Cadillac Burger ($7.75 for beef, $8.75 for bison) with cheddar and bacon, among others. The sauce is too cloyingly sweet for my taste.
I’m partial to Ted’s fries ($1.75). Though not crisp, they are the fresh-cut variety with slivers of potato skin left intact. They remind me of the Boardwalk Fries I used to eat as a kid during summers in Ocean City, Md. I’d love to see some vinegar for dousing the fries among the amiable jumble of condiments set on every table.
If beef or bison isn’t your thing, you can also order a chicken sandwich with the same whirligig of ingredients on top. I’m partial to the Swiss and mushroom combo ($8.25).
It should also be noted that this restaurant makes a mean veggie burger. There are two schools of thought on the meat-free patty: those that try to mimic the taste and texture of meat, and those that bear no resemblance in flavor or consistency to their carnivorous cousins. Ted’s goes for the former. It’s a thick, toothsome creation that holds its own nicely with the bun and accoutrements.
There are a few other entree items that stray from the sandwich theme. Blue plate specials ($8.50-$10.50) include homey, down-to-earth offerings like meatloaf with mashed potatoes and squash casserole, and a fish sandwich with coleslaw and french fries. If you want to take your bison consumption to the next level, try the juicy roast bison strip loin ($15.95 for 6 ounces, $19.95 for 9 ounces) or, if you’re really ready to chow, the bison prime rib (12 ounces for $20.95).
Starters are limited to soups and salads. Both the Wedge (of iceberg) with bacon and tomato, and the Caesar salad (each $3.75) were typical lackluster specimens. Stick with soup. The cream of tomato, usually available on Sundays, is chunky and rich ($2.95 for a cup, $3.95 for a bowl). Karen’s “Flying D” Chili (priced the same as the soup) is hearty and substantial, enough to keep them doggies rollin’ for an afternoon.
Desserts are limited to cookies ($1 each), thick, frothy malts ($3.95), and root beer or coke floats ($3.75 and $3.25, respectively).
I have to give props to the folks behind Ted’s for not taking a chain concept and running amok with absurd culinary conceptions or Americanized “ethnic” cuisines. The food is generally fresh, basic and ultimately likable. A third location in the Atlanta area is scheduled to open near Centennial Olympic Park in the second quarter of 2003, and I’ll be lining up with the tourists and convention-goers to get my bison burger fix, with lots of guac on top.