Cheap Eats - Asian influence

China Inn is stylish and affordable

With a name like China Inn, I didn’t expect much more than a Chin Chin with extra Roman numerals tacked to the end. Its location in the Chamblee strip mall along Peachtree Industrial didn’t give it much clout either. But this new eatery has taken an otherwise drab space next door to a Wherehouse Music and transformed it into a classy joint with a familiar, affordable menu. Instead of the usual oilcloth table coverings, grungy floors and tacky wall decorations, the restaurant sports a large koi tank, polished wood tables and a cozy atmosphere.

What we ate: A pot of jasmine tea arrived to get the meal started, a nice addition not seen at your typical speedy Chinese stop. The menu includes Mandarin, Szechwan, Cantonese and Hunan selections, so you’ll find the usual take-out favorites. Kung pao varieties abound as well as sweet and sour this-and-that, lo meins and fried rice. The spring rolls (two for $2.50) were fat and crispy, and the steamed pot stickers (six for $3.95) just right. General Tsu’s chicken (a house specialty) is an old favorite that doesn’t disappoint: Large portions of fried chicken swim in a gooey sweet and spicy sauce ($8.50). The orange beef ($8.95) offers crisp strips of meat, plenty of orangey zest, red peppers and a spicy sauce. If you didn’t get your fill during Chinese New Year, check out the Mandarin duck ($10.50)

Service: There was hardly a time when someone wasn’t there to fill a glass, bring food or otherwise make sure we were happy. Even though we showed up near closing time (several of the staff were already enjoying their dinners a table over), we were still treated warmly.

Cheapest item: In the long tradition of the Chinese lunch special, China Inn’s spread features standbys like moo goo gai pan, chow mein or other selections for $7.95. The meal also includes an egg roll, fried chicken wings, fried rice, and a choice of wonton, egg drop, or hot and sour soup.

Most expensive item: Shrimp dishes are where you’ll see the highest prices. There’s the sizzling rice shrimp, honey-glazed walnut shrimp, sauteed pepper shrimp and sugar snap peas shrimp. All go for $10.50. The Mandarin ribs ($10.50) are a house specialty.??