Cheap Eats - Taco takeover

Watching dump trucks as they maneuver, the honking and beeping of large construction equipment and congestion along one of the city’s busiest streets isn’t really the best patio view I can imagine, but it’s what you get at the Burrito Brothers. Located directly across from the mixed-use BellSouth Lindbergh Center development along Piedmont Road, the former Zesto location has been retrofitted with tortillas instead of hamburgers — but that’s really the only difference. Along with the retro-chrome look, the restaurant’s prices are dirt cheap, and until the dirt is settled across the street there won’t be much of a line during lunch. But once the doors of the new development are open, there should be a rush for the meat and beans.

What we ate: The Big Juan burrito includes ground beef, refried beans, cheese, sour cream, salsa and lettuce rolled in a flour tortilla. For lunch, the burrito’s regular price of $3.99 includes a beverage as well. This is more than a Taco Bell rip-off. The bulging burrito includes plenty of fixings and is fresh and made to order. You also can choose to have the tortilla steamed or grilled. Other burrito offerings are a take on this classic, with a choice of grilled fajita chicken or grilled steak.

Tacos like the grande include the same ground beef, steak or chicken with cheese, sour cream, salsa and lettuce ($2.49); there’s even a fish taco with grilled tilapia ($2.49). Make sure you ask for a soft shell, otherwise you may be disappointed. The hard-shelled variety seems a bit pricey for what you’re getting, and not nearly as satisfying as the soft- tortilla-wrapped variety.

The grilled chicken quesadilla we ordered (10-inch, $3.99; 12-inch, $4.99) arrived with steak meat, but we tried it anyway and were satisfied. It comes with sour cream and salsa, but if you want the onions and chopped jalapenos, make sure you speak up.

I haven’t tried the hot wings, but they’re available ($5.49 for 10 wings). I think I’ll stick to the nachos ($1.99-$5.99).

Service: With the slow pace, there’s almost time for the staff to take a siesta. But when someone does walk in, there’s prompt service and quick turn-around on orders. Order at the counter and wait for your number to be called.

Cheapest item: If you’re especially broke, you can pick up the veggie burrito, prepared with no-lard refried pintos or black beans for $3.29. Or get a single bean taco for $1.59.

Most expensive item: The Burrito Pescado Especial — stuffed with the grilled tilapia, rice, cheese, salsa and slaw — is still a deal at $5.29.

Presto Zesto: The change of menu and name doesn’t mean Burrito Brothers has done away with the Zesto ice cream. You can still order milk shakes ($1.75-$2), malts ($1.95-$2.20) and flavored arctic swirls ($2.40). But if you’re confused, stick to the simple Cone o’ Zesto. For $1.60, you get a tower of soft vanilla ice cream. It makes any mix-up or hot pepper go down easier.??