Cheap Eats - Rainbow connection

Veg-out at Rainbow Restaurant



Rainbow Natural Foods doesn’t disappoint when it comes to covering all the standard veg-head consumer ground — cramped aisles, funky smells, plenty of dreadlocked employees. But tucked behind the hemp, vitamins and organic produce is a bustling nook of natural goodness. In back, a salad bar and deli flank the doorway to Rainbow Restaurant. If you’re on the go, pick up basmati rice covered with sauteed vegetables, vegetarian lasagna, or lettuce and hummus by the pound. Or take your place in line with the lunch crowd and wait to be seated.

HAPPY ACCIDENT: Inside, a dozen or so tables are pushed together in a tiny, wood-paneled room. It’s decidedly welcoming and comfortable. At the moment, un-ironic Bob Ross-esque paintings decorate the walls — portraits of roses and idyllic woodland scenes. Silk sunflowers on tables are the only other complement to the bare-bones arrangement. A chalkboard by the kitchen updates you on the daily dessert and soup possibilities.

RAINBOW BRITE: Servers are laid-back and friendly. Mostly college-age women, they are quick to fill glasses of water or the honey-sweetened, iced red zinger tea ($1). But things can get backed up when staffing is low.

PEANUT BUTTER MY BREAD: I usually would pass on a peanut butter sandwich for lunch, but my friend assured me the Fancy Peanut Butter ($3.75) was fab. The sandwich doesn’t look too fancy, but Mom never made it like this: whole wheat bread slathered with fresh-ground, creamy peanut butter, sliced bananas and crispy Murray apples with a good dose of gooey honey.

SPECTRUM OF SPECIALS: The vegetarian lasagna, kung pao tofu and walnut loaf (a “meat” loaf with brown rice, jack cheese, ground walnuts, onions and wheat germ) are all regular daily specials. A Wednesday special of Cincinnati spaghetti skirted true Cincinnati style. The spaghetti ($5.95), sometimes referred to as Skyline chili, is usually prepared with heavy doses of chili powder and cinnamon, sometimes cocoa and allspice. This one doesn’t contain any cinnamon or the other unusual additions. It’s simply the restaurant’s New Mexican vegetarian chili with kidney beans, green bell peppers and tomatoes cooked to a spaghetti sauce consistency. Layered over the artichoke spaghetti, the sauce was loaded with sweetness and plenty of vegetable chunks.



CUP OF GOLD: Hearty soups ($1.75 cup/$2.50 bowl) are kept simple. Autumn vegetable was a smorgasbord of potato, squash, carrots, bell peppers, kale and celery swimming in a spicy vegetable stock; the lima bean soup was similar but lacking kick. Cauliflower corn was an earthy-tasting melange with a thick, almost creamy base.

SLICE OF LIFE: Make sure to top it all off with a slice of pumpkin pie. It’s light on the nutmeg and topped with a scoop of fresh whipped cream prepared with maple syrup.

jerry.portwood@creativeloafing.com??