Cheap Eats - Cajun a go-go

Fondaines Bistro picks up on Ponce

Atlanta’s Cajun establishments keep vanishing. Granted, a few places remain where you can get beignets or etouffee. But with Ya-Ya’s, Mr. Delicious and the once-super-popular Gumbo A Go-Go all gone, the scene is mostly a bust. But a new hole-in-the-wall has opened in Gumbo A Go-Go’s old digs: Fondaines Bistro. It’s more Bourbon Street than Peachtree — which doesn’t always fly when you aren’t buzzed. Garish magenta and teal walls, harsh fluorescents and zydeco music assault the senses. But anything more would be a lot to expect on this patch of ungentrified Ponce de Leon.

Slow lane: The restaurant is a tag-team operation between two chefs. There are no servers to be found. The cheerful guys seat patrons, deliver utensils, serve the food and drinks, and toil in the kitchen. This causes long delays. I’ve waited 15 to 20 minutes for water, and another 10 minutes for my meal. As the name implies, Gumbo A Go-Go was known for its speedy service, which attracted lunch crowds. But it’s hard to get out of Fondaines in under an hour.



Gumbo: My Lousianne dining companion refused the French Quarter’s Gumbo ($3.95). She’s a gumbo purist and doesn’t believe sausage should be included. But I enjoyed the stuff nonetheless. It’s a lot of food for the price — a richly seasoned stock with plump shrimp, spicy andouille sausage and chicken strips served over rice. Unfortunately, there’s no okra to be found. Gumbo is actually a derivation of the African word for okra, and although you can do it sans the veggie, it always seems to be lacking in texture. Two separate occasions produced wildly varying gumbo results: the first, a soupy, red-colored mixture; the second a duller, lighter version. But both hit the spot.

Po’boy: The classic New Orleans sandwiches are served on soft, flaky baguettes and filled with a variety of predictable stuffings: blackened chicken, shrimp salad, sausage, grilled or fried fish, chicken strips, and both a turkey and beef burger. The andouille sausage po’boy ($5.75) contained the zippy sausage split down the middle and dressed with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, onions, cheese and loads of mayonnaise — a simple, classic rendition.

All that jazz: The Jazzy Red Beans & Rice ($6.95) did wonders to warm my spirits after the wait for its arrival. The slightly spicy creation was served over rice, filling the room with its earthy herbs and spices. (Make sure you add the andouille sausage for an extra buck.) The creamy jambalaya ($7.99) was served over a huge helping of rice and nearly resembled a risotto dish, with chucks of chicken, sausage and shrimp. If the waits are shortened and the decor sweetened, this place may have a future.

jerry.portwood@creativeloafing.com