Cheap Eats - Don’t play with your food

Burrito Delight’s creativity gets the best of its quality

Zero for 3? It’s Monday lunch, the no-man’s land of dining schedules. The first two restaurants we tried take the industry-standard Sunday/Monday weekend, and at first glance it appears that Burrito Delight (formerly Burrito Art) does the same. We’re about to head home when we glimpse a figure stirring behind the counter in the dark. I give the door a gentle push and discover that the place is indeed open. The only bright light in the restaurant’s interior emanates from the kitchen, partly visible from the seating area.

I’ve practically got to squint to read the menu at the gloomy counter. Scanning the list of “modern burritos,” I’m not sure if I’m interested in combinations such as grilled sirloin, duck sauce, pineapple and sour cream inside a tortilla. I’ve eaten dessert made of black olives and chocolate and liked it. But if the lack of attention demonstrated by a dim, careworn interior and slow service are any indication of the food, I’ll play it safe the first time around.

Tangy in a bad way: We decide to try out Burrito Delight’s simplest standard Mexican fare first. I build my own quesadilla with grilled chicken ($5.25). Served with a stingy portion of chips and watery salsa, the quesadilla’s stale tortilla is barely browned. Dry, chewy slices of grilled chicken are trapped in a too-thick mesh of rubbery Jack cheese. Overpriced chips and guacamole ($4.50) have seen better days. A heavy hand of limejuice masks a funky tanginess — the unmistakable sourness of fermentation.

Beanie weenie: My friend builds a bean burrito ($3.50). Much to his disappointment, it’s served prone on a plate, smothered in sauce that would be completely tasteless but for its chili spice. Crumbles of feta dot the top and have no context in the meal. The beans are firm and creamy yet devoid of all seasoning. An accompanying nest of slaw is a surprising treat, however — fresh, crisp and cold with a mellow vinegar bite.

A second visit on a Friday evening is a bit more brightly lit. A pork burrito ($6.95) could be a winner if given more attention. The smoked pork is tender and silken but bland and watery. With brown rice, Jack cheese, salsa and chili sauce, the burrito has just enough elements to create deep, zesty flavors without being over-the-top. Yet it comes together in a flavorless, forgettable package.

Uncommon: Although the Common Man Burrito ($5.95) of meatloaf, caramelized onions and garlic, and mashed potatoes sounds a bit scary, I decide to give it a go. The meatloaf and potatoes are acceptable, if stone cold in the center. The gravy topping the tortilla is savory enough, but the flour tortilla is an alien texture. I want the burrito to work, but like many others on the menu, it seems to be a creation of the mind rather than the palate. Some things simply do not belong inside a tortilla. I’m a firm believer that you can break most culinary rules should your imagination run rampant. But you can’t ignore the importance of freshness. And the folks in Burrito Delight’s kitchen need to retaste their off-center concoctions.

cynthia.wong@creativeloafing.com