Cheap Eats - Little House in the Village

Cantina La Casita fills the need for laid-back Tex-Mex in East Atlanta

You’ll find the same beaten-up, painted-over and chipping concrete that’s underfoot at Cantina La Casita at the Earl, Grant Central, the Gravity Pub, and in almost all East Atlanta establishments. Let’s call it the official flooring of the Village. It doesn’t matter if the floors have been freshly mopped; the restaurant, like East Atlanta Village, still maintains the proudly grungy feel. Sadly, businesses come and go in my ‘hood, but I have a strong feeling recently opened Cantina La Casita will stick around for a while. The Tex-Mex restaurant fully captures the area’s laid-back vibe and offers decent eats, too.

Salsa under the stars: Located in a converted house that was formerly Pasta Thyme, Cantina boasts a large, comfortable bar area, two dining rooms and a spacious patio complete with strings of colored lights. Cantina’s outdoor area is an intown oasis located off the Village’s main strip and isolated from weekend caravans of cruising, booming lowriders. Once the eatery receives a full liquor license and can begin serving the bevy of margaritas listed on the back of its menu, I might make the deck my second home.

Margaritaville: The folks at Cantina win major points for cleverly skirting the liquor license issue. Smart enough to understand that few people would be happy nibbling on nachos, tacos or even their limey, creamy guacamole ($3.25) without accompanying margaritas, they offer an agave version ($4). With wine made from agave (the same plant from which tequila is distilled), these margaritas taste remarkably like regular ones with a touch more sweetness.

Porkin’ out: On the first visit, the kitchen has run out of all meat fillings but pork. Not a problem with my crowd. The pork taco ($1.95) is succulent, with a spicy, piquant bite. Like the rest of the food at Cantina, it’s perfectly acceptable, if nothing exceptional. The pork chimichanga ($6.75), described as “shallow-fried” on the menu, tastes toastily griddled. This method produces a crisp, flaky wrapping for the braised pork and vegetables inside without excess greasiness. Goopy white cheese sauce is sloshed on top for a sticky, junk-foody belly-filler.

Rally ‘round the tamale: The chicken tamale ($2.50) is just firm enough with moist shreds of chicken and not a hint of gumminess. Devoured on a cold night, it satisfies a deep craving. The fish taco ($1.95), featuring tender strips of lightly fried tilapia, has a kicky smack of jalapeno. Cantina seems to be running fairly smoothly for a restaurant that’s been open just over a month. They’ve got the hang out ‘n’ chill Village vibe down pat, and I’m sure the already tasty food will get even better. I’m sure I’m not the only one happy to welcome this neighbor.