Cheap Eats - ‘wich splendor on the South Side

When spending less than $10 on a meal, it’s easy to overlook little imperfections: offbeat service, a forgotten drink refill, pickles on the burger when “plain” is requested. But honestly, everything at Which Wich is exactly as it should be. The name of this popular national franchise may be a little goofy, but the concept is anything but. The place gleams with scaled-down modernity, from stark yellow-and-black iconography decorating the walls (a smiley face, a line drawing of a sandwich) to sturdy blond wood countertops and tables. Everything seems thought out to the most minute detail, including the music (an upbeat college-radio mix courtesy of Aware Records). The space is reminiscent of Chipotle: sleek and modern, but unpretentious.

Sandwich shuffle: Upon entry, patrons grab a brown paper bag from dispensers along the wall. The bags have the menu printed on them. Bag dispensers are numbered 1 through 10, corresponding to the base sandwich element (turkey, ham, etc.). After the grabbing of the bag, snare a red Sharpie and start checking off the desired additions (condiments, extra cheese, grilled onions, sauerkraut, etc.). Write your name on the bottom of the bag and then hand it off to the employee behind the counter. When the sandwich is ready, he’ll pop it back in the bag, call your name and lunch is served.

Wicked good: No one seems to know the drill yet, so the gregarious owner, Caleb Soong, comes around from behind the counter to explain the process and offer spot-on recommendations. Do try the “Wicked” sandwich, the house specialty. It’s the only ‘wich priced over $4, and it’s a thing of beauty, stuffed with turkey, ham, roast beef, pepperoni and bacon with two cheeses. It sounds like a hulking mess, but they keep the sandwiches at a reasonable size. You can actually get your mouth around the thing. Another thoughtful detail: All the sandwiches are toasted to order, warm and just a little bit oozy when you unwrap them from the butcher paper. The turkey ‘wich is another winner, with just the right amount of shaved turkey topped with Swiss cheese and a dollop of sweet coleslaw. The pizza ‘wich is like a portable slice, with traditional pizza ingredients (pepperoni, mozzarella, marinara sauce) squeezed into a toasted hoagie roll.

Best of the rest: The meat-averse can choose from an array of seafood and veggie options, including a tasty crab melt, a relatively virtuous tomato and avocado ‘wich, and the “Elvis” — a kid-friendly mash-up of peanut butter, banana and honey. Look past the raft of Doritos and Ruffles and opt instead for a little brown bag filled with homemade potato chips, liberally seasoned with salt and pepper. (Warning: They’re addictive.) A stack of fresh-baked cookies and brownies by the cash register may look tempting, but they pale in comparison to a luscious milkshake whizzed up and featuring ice cream, fresh strawberries and bananas.

Hapeville may not be the usual stomping grounds for folks inside the Perimeter, but if you’re willing to make the trek there, you may just be rewarded with the best sandwich you’ve ever had.