Cheap Eats - Royal China: Winsome dim sum

Dim sum, translated from Cantonese, means “small hearts.” The “hearts” in this Chinese culinary custom consist of endless types of dumplings, custards and rice-flour cakes. Well-rendered offerings are lovingly whittled into little shapes stuffed large with infatuating flavor.

Beijing brunch: Dim sum is traditionally dished up at authentic Chinese restaurants from mid-morning until early afternoon. An Asian brunch of sorts, the meal is most popular on the weekends when the assortment is more abundant than on weekdays. Although the Chamblee/Doraville areas are home to countless dim sum diners, Royal China stands out as a favorite among experienced Asians and novices alike.

Royal China Restaurant begins its dim sum buzz every weekend when those in the know arrive around 10:30, in time to see the calm transition into well-choreographed chaos. Diners will be rushed to a seat and served hot tea. Drink endless thimbles of this stuff – it’s the real thing with herbs or flower petals floating right in the brew.

Pushcart named desire: There’s no Western meal that’s rendered quite like dim sum. Endless pan-fried pot stickers, steamed dumplings and barbecue-filled pork buns roll by on steaming pushcarts. Royal China’s carts also contain various soups ladled up tableside. One woman must roll vicariously through tables with a special cart topped with a grill. She stops when beckoned to heat sizzling pan-fried taro, rice and radish cakes. Sesame balls, fried noodle puffs, steamed giant rice noodles stuffed with shrimp or beef like a crazy cannelloni, and sweet-cream flans accessorized with cocktail umbrellas and tiny Chinese paper lanterns provide a parade of all imaginable textures, colors and hidden surprises.

The portions are bite-sized with only two or three pieces of each delight per plate. So the obvious idea is to gather a large group and go for a variety sure to satisfy without leaving the belly stuffed and the wallet empty. At $2.15 to $3.25 per plate, with the hot tea served for free, it’s easy to try a bounty at a bargain.

Asian Array: Royal China usually has around 30 different dim sum selections, which might vary seasonally. The never-ending dumplings are fried or steamed and stuffed with everything from shark fin to scallops. A sure bet is the sticky rice in lotus leaf, which is like a little present to be unwrapped. Every weekend there’s a new mixture of flavored rice and sausages bundled inside. Stuffed shrimp on a sugarcane stick is always a winner as are the baby pork spare ribs in sauce and the stuffed eggplant. Don’t forget to try the delightful mango pudding.

The more adventurous will do well to sample the chicken or duck feet with black-bean or black-mushroom sauce. Dried squid with curry and all manner of bean-curd stir fries and stuffed tofus are worth trying.

Just remember to order a lot and not just stick with a few known items – variety is the sum secret to enjoying authentic dim sum.