Cheap Eats - Julie’s Cafe: Curried goat and gospel

It’s a dreary day in Decatur. But warmth emanates from a cozy cubbyhole. A classic gospel tune promises “blood of the sacred lamb will save.” But it’s curried goat and chicken and other simmering stews that offer literal soul sustenance here.

That and the welcoming atmosphere of Julie’s Café. The small cafeteria-style eatery is decorated with subtle colors; the rusty brown hues and wheat-filled baskets elegantly illustrate the cuisine’s essence of fire and sweetness.

Curry, spice and all things nice: Julie’s hosts an array of daily specials as well as a regular menu. Belly up to the counter and peek into the steam trays to see the fresh fare.

The staff of two is helpful and will lead you to dishes suited to your taste and tolerance for heat. Standard stews include browned, curried, dark and white jerked chicken, as well as oxtails and goat. Most of the slow-cooked dishes include a generous portion over rice and “peas” (red kidney beans), steamed cabbage or green beans and a fried plantain. The heavy Styrofoam plates are heaping and run around $5.99. Add extra boiled bananas, cocoa bread or fried dumplings, and you’ll have leftovers for later and then some.

Patty cake: As a snack or appetizer, the chicken or beef patties ($1.40) are fluffy and full of finely diced veggies and poultry or meat, with just enough fire to keep the tongue tingling. Order one to go wrapped in soft cocoa bread for a heartwarming fast-food alternative.

Jerk jive: A sure bet is the curried chicken, chock-full of carrots, young potatoes and fresh ground spices. Primarily breast meat is used, and it is not overcooked into goopiness. Rather, the ingredients retain their singular integrity and come together into a mix that melds, not melts. Along with a light curry mix, there is an essence of nutmeg and allspice. For more fire, try the jerk. The escovitch (pickled) tilapia features firm fillets of fish marinated in vinegar and spices that has been lightly fried, then stewed with bell peppers and herbs and served over rice and peas.

There are a handful of made-to-order dinners, including Jamaica’s indigenous ackee and codfish ($8). Ackee fruit, when cooked, renders black seeds and yellow flesh and is mixed with fish into a hearty dish served with dumplings and green bananas.

Don’t forget to try the sorrel ($2.50) – a red flower tea with a tart taste and the color of cranberries. The homemade pumpkin bread or one of the daily desserts round things off just right.