Feedbag - Loaves from heaven

Highland BakeryFew times in my life have been as trying as the six weeks I attempted to do the South Beach Diet. Giving up carbohydrates was almost as hard - though not quite - as giving up cigarettes. I felt enormously sorry for myself in my state of deprivation, all the while sneaking bites of forbidden bagels and granola bars. I didn’t lose much weight, and since then I haven’t had another lapse in judgment. Bread is simply too good to give up.

When I wandered into Highland Bakery on a quiet Friday morning, I knew a carb binge would be unavoidable. Loaves of multigrain and rustic ciabatta lined wooden racks behind the counter. Giant oatmeal-raisin cookies were stacked neatly near the cash register. Decadent-looking cinnamon rolls and oversized muffins practically threw themselves at me. Who was I to say no to them? The good news is that all of Highland Bakery’s goods are organic, made with natural ingredients and unrefined grains. Hallelujah! Guilt-free carb loading.

The fresh breads are the real reason to make a trip here. Chewy sourdough and virtuous whole wheat had just the right balance of tooth and tenderness. Springy, substantial Kaiser rolls redefined my notion of the lowly hamburger bun. Homemade bagels, on the other hand, could have passed for dinner rolls with holes in the middle; they were obviously fresh and made with care, but they lacked that distinctive bagel chewiness. And a dry, tough cinnamon roll, though dripping luscious cream cheese icing, tasted like it came from yesterday’s batch.

I sampled the sandwich menu on another visit. Creamy chicken salad was pleasantly sweet, thanks to sliced red grapes and a generous dash of curry powder. Curry popped up again, more subtly this time, in a roasted turkey sandwich topped with greens, avocado, tangy vinaigrette and apricot-curry mayo.

A quiet mellowness pervades the bakery’s airy space. The place is hardly a secret, but its location in the still-somewhat-shady Old Fourth Ward seems to keep the organic-obsessed intown rabble at bay. As I waited for my sandwich at a utilitarian table in the stripped-down dining room, I watched a dreadlocked girl behind the bar, rolling silverware and chatting with a woman sipping coffee on a barstool. She playfully teased a good-looking British guy as he stowed fresh loaves of bread on the wooden racks. Sunshine poured into the big loft windows, and all seemed right with the world.

Well, almost right, anyway. The guy working the register had nailed his “I don’t give a fuck” expression, and he had his incomprehensible mumble down to a tee. I guess I should shrug it off. It’s just a neighborhood bakery. But nobody likes being treated poorly, even if it’s in the name of uncommonly good bread.

florence.byrd@creativeloafing.comSomething’s BrewingAthens-brewed Terrapin Beer is the star of a beer dinner on Thurs., June 2, at Meehan’s in Brookhaven. The dinner matches four of the brewery’s beers with a four-course menu of Brunswick stew, lobster plantain crisps, chopped bookmaker’s salad, and a Chesapeake Bay blue crab and shrimp boil. The dinner begins at 7 p.m. and is $45 per person (plus tax and gratuity). 4058 Peachtree Road. 404-467-9531. www.101concepts.com.

A Liquid Trip to FranceJoin Joel head sommelier Philippe Buttin on Wed., June 8, for a wine tasting featuring the white wines of the Loire Valley. The tasting is $30 per person and will last from 6-7:15 p.m. 3290 Northside Parkway. 404-233-3500. www.joelrestaurant.com.

Nice ShotNava in Buckhead is hosting a tequila tasting Tues., June 14. From 6-7:30 p.m., guests will sip tequila and learn to appreciate the subtleties and nuances of Latin America’s favorite spirit. 3060 Peachtree Road. 404-240-1984. www.buckheadrestaurants.com.

Screen SceneEvery Monday night through June 27, mosey on down to Cowtippers for “Dinner and a Moo-vie.” Each week, the restaurant will show a different movie on two large screens on the patio. Screenings start at 7 p.m., and each week there will be food and drink specials to coincide with the theme of the movie. No cover charge. 1600 Piedmont Ave. 404-874-3751. www.cowtippersatlanta.com.

Fruit FeteDid you know that June is National Papaya Month? Well, now you do. And Fogo de Chao in Buckhead is celebrating with complimentary papaya cream desserts at lunch from May 30-June 5. 3101 Piedmont Road. 404-266-9988. www.fogodechao.com.

Summertime SpreadRathbun’s in Inman Park has spruced up its menu for summer. Look for the addition of monkfish piccata with capers, Georgia zucchini and parmesan salad, crispy duck with Thai risotto and green curry, and Kobe beef with red pepper chimmichurri. Look for wacky new ice cream flavors, too: corn, olive oil, browned butter, balsamic and Tabasco. 112 Krog St. 404-524-8280. www.rathbunsrestaurant.com.??