Beer - Flavor Flav: scary; Flavorful beer: not scary!

When a friend of mine asks for a beer, and I ask, “What flavor?” he is fond of saying, “Beer flavor.” To me, this is like saying, “Cheese flavor” when someone asks what kind of cheese you want on your burger. Parmesan and mozzarella cheese could not be more different, but they are both delicious, and they are both cheese. We wouldn’t want all cheese to taste the same, so why should all beer taste the same? Like cheese, beer is created by a living organism — in this case yeast, which may be God’s greatest creation. Although it cannot turn water into wine, it can turn sugars into beer, and that’s way cool. Unfortunately, the little buggers leave some sugars behind, and drinking the result could be like drinking watered-down maple syrup. But add a bittering agent — usually hops — and we get a very tasty beverage. By using different varieties of malt, hops and yeast, and carefully controlling the fermentation, an amazing variety of flavors is possible.

Despite the possibilities, the typical American light lager is carefully formulated to minimize flavors. They emphasize “smoothness” and “drinkability,” with no “bitter aftertaste.” This is accomplished by reducing the hops. But without the hop bitterness, the malt flavor would be cloying, so they reduce that as well. Corn and rice are substituted for malt to create a “cleaner” taste. It is reductio ad absurdum. Feel free to cite that as an example of the concept on your next philosophy paper.

American brewers have been gradually removing the flavor from beer for years, but they are not totally to blame. They have merely responded to consumer demand. German immigrants in the late 19th century introduced lagers that were lighter bodied than the simple English ales early Americans had often made at home. Mass production, railroad distribution and urbanization meant that more and more Americans got their beer from commercial breweries, and lagers became their preferred beer style. No problem there; German lagers and Czech pilsners are perfectly fine beers. However, Prohibition killed off most of the smaller local and regional breweries leaving the ruthless capitalists and megalomaniacs at Schlitz, Miller, Pabst and Anheuser-Busch to compete to make beer that appealed to the most people. The result is that they all make essentially the same product, relying on advertising and marketing to distinguish their beer.

Unfortunately, this has led most Americans to believe that beer is not supposed to be “strong.” When they taste a flavorful craft beer, it doesn’t taste like beer to them. Approach beer with the expectation of flavor, and a whole new world opens up. Abandon the notion that beer is meant to be guzzled from a can and try sipping it like a wine, liqueur or cocktail.

For more beer history, check out An American Brew, a 50-minute documentary directed by Roger M. Sherman that explores America’s love of beer from colonial times to the present, with an emphasis on the changes brought by Prohibition. Summit’s Wayside Tavern will be screening the film May 29 in Snellville and June 5 in Cumming. You can also purchase the DVD for a mere $6. Full disclosure: The film was commissioned by Anheuser-Busch as part of its “Here’s to Beer” Campaign. The juggernaut rumbles on …

Speaking of pilsners, I had a chance to taste the latest creation from Sweetwater Brewing Company, Road Trip Ale, at the East Atlanta Beer Festival last weekend. Road Trip starts out with a pilsner recipe to which an ale yeast is added. The result is a pilsner-like aroma and taste from the noble hops, but with a more distinctive, biscuity malt flavor and less of the sharp, dry finish of a traditional pilsner. Road Trip is perfect for sipping around the pool this summer, or for that road trip to the beach — just wait until you get there to open one.

Talking Head columnist Jeff Holland can be reached at jeff.holland@creativeloafing.com.