Beer - Separating the wheat from the chaff

Two of the surviving brewpubs

For the Creative Loafing Beer Issue earlier this summer, CL food critic (and spirited drinker) Besha Rodell and I visited some of Atlanta’s breweries and brewpubs to take stock of the state of the brewer’s art in the city. Legislation opening the door for brewpubs spurred a mini-boom in the 1990s, but Atlantans were slow to embrace house-made beers, and frankly, some of the efforts showed a lack of imagination and a pedestrian knowledge of brewing. Within a few short years, the wheat was separated from the chaff, leaving less than a half-dozen brewpubs and only three microbreweries. The repeal of the alcohol limit on beer has revived the craft beer industry in Georgia, which may be finally ready to support the bumper sticker adage, “Think Globally, Drink Locally.”

Limited by time, funds and designated driver support, Besha and I were not able to hit all of the city’s brewpubs, so my next two columns will fill in some of the gaps. This week features two brewpubs within a cab ride of each other that make a nice pairing for an afternoon and evening session of beer sampling. Start at Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant in Midtown , which has a nice patio with an indoor/outdoor bar that is wonderful on a warm, late summer afternoon.

This West Coast chain started as a microbrewery, later adding restaurants serving their signature German-style lagers. With Oktoberfest on the horizon, this is a great time to stop in for a marzen, the traditional fest beer served in Munich. They also make a terrific hefeweizen and a high-gravity, earthy, blonde bock. The food is quite good, too, and the quality pool tables upstairs are a nice diversion while knocking back a few half-liters.

As the sun sets, head down Peachtree to Max Lager’s American Grill and Brewery, where Peachtree and West Peachtree split, near the Hyatt Regency. Surrounded by pay parking and too far from Centennial Park to be found by wandering tourists, I thought this place was doomed when it opened. Fortunately it has soldiered on, catering to hotel guests and downtown workers, as well as the occasional beer aficionado.

The industrial brick building decorated with iron machinery and massive brewing equipment is impressive, although the upstairs bar and the wonderful balcony overlooking the skyline are rarely open. The usual house beers include the Gold, Red, Pale and Black, some of which are more exciting than their names. The Pale falls somewhere between a West Coast pale ale (think Sierra Nevada) and a traditional India Pale Ale. Brimming with fresh hop aroma and a citrus-y crispness, this is a perfect evening sipper.

If you are looking for a good session beer, look no further than the Max Gold, a pleasing example of a Bavarian pilsner — clean and slightly spicy, with a hint of white pepper and grassy, grainy malts. I found the Red, a Vienna-style lager, and the Black, a dark lager, less satisfying. Brewer John Roberts also presents an occasional “brewer’s special” (which is currently an Imperial IPA and this week’s beer pick). There is a regular slate of seasonals, as well, including the Oktoberfest, which will be available at theMax Lager’s Oktoberfest celebration Sept. 22.

Beer news

Two other Oktoberfest celebrations are going on Sept. 22, with live radio broadcasts, beer sponsors, and the usual shenanigans. Well, whatever the German word is for shenanigans. Meehan’s Ale House in Sandy Springs will have a German polka band from 1-5 p.m. and German food and beer all day. Don’t miss the Bratwurst eating contest. Dale Boone, are you ready? Radio Station 97.1 The River will be on hand as well. Sponsored by Warsteiner. Call 404-843-8058 for more information.

Underground Atlanta will have its own festival Sept. 22 noon to 7 p.m., with American party music from Slip Tripman, 99X broadcasting live, and All-American supermodel and St. Pauli Girl model Bobbi Sue Luther, whose last name at least suggests some German heritage, on hand to sign posters of herself. Sponsored by St. Pauli Girl, natch, which is an actual German beer.

Next week also features two beer dinners of note. First, Executive Chef Carmen Cappello of JCL Global Culinary will be presenting a beer dinner at 5th Earl Market Monday, Sept. 17. Four courses will be served and paired with selections from Dogfish Head Brewery of Milton, Del., for $55 per person. Call the 5th Earl Market at 404-377-5477 or e-mail brian@5thearlmarket.com for more information.

On Tuesday, Sept. 18, Food 101 in Morningside will host a beer dinner featuring four courses paired with four beers from Terrapin Beer Company.

Finally, this weekend, Summits Wayside Taverns will feature two special Rogue tappings. Firkin Friday, on Sept. 14 at 6 p.m., will be a traditional cask of Rogue Brutal Bitter, a perfect candidate for a real ale treatment. On Saturday, Sept. 15, both locations will roll out kegs of Rogue Imperial Porter, a Baltic style porter that is rich in chocolate, coffee and roasted malt flavors, but with a definite Rogue imprint of herbal hop bitterness.

Get out and support your local brewpub or beer bar!

Talking Head columnist Jeff Holland can be reached at jeff.holland@creativeloafing.com