Where to Eat Chinese in Atlanta

Watching the chefs at New Lan Zhou in the Atlanta Chinatown Mall food court hand-pull dough into impossibly long stretches of noodle is a joy. Digging into the noodles moments later offers joy times two. There are plenty of variations on the house special, but the braised beef version is our current favorite — offering chunky cubes of meat and a rich stock to counter those chewy noodles. Slurp away. $8.50.

Thick egg noodles tangled into a tiny bowl are bathed in a sweet and spicy sauce. Oil infused with fried chilies and Szechuan peppercorns brings the heat, while green onion adds a bright pop. Mix it all together in the deep-red dressing, pluck a comically long strand of noodles, and be prepared to fight your tablemate for the last slurp. $7.25.

You think Krispy Kreme and milky coffee is oh-so-very American? This Chinese take on the wonders of hot, tender fried dough with a sugary touch knows no geographical or cultural bounds. The bowl of soy milk and long cruller make for a dunking-and-nibbling experience worth lingering over. $2.50.

People will debate: Is it what it used to be? Is it as good as it once was? Is it is it is it? We'll tell you what it is: delicious. The thick french-fry-like, battered and fried sticks of eggplant have gone through a few incarnations, but the current one is as good as it comes. Crispy on the outside, creamy and piping-hot in the middle, and showered with cilantro, red pepper flakes and Szechuan peppercorns that leave your tongue all abuzz and your water tasting like seltzer. $13.95.

When this dish appeared in the mid-2000s, it was a revelation to Atlanta diners. Batons of eggplant are dry-fried - not deep-fried - which means they aren't soggy, but as crispy as french fries. The interior is creamy like custard and the outside is seasoned with that hot and numbing Sichuan wonder Tasty China is known for. Pops of fresh scallion add brightness in between bites. Just don't eat the dried chilies. $8.95.?

STILL THE ONE: Tasty China's dry fried eggplant was featured in the 2011 edition of 100 Dishes to Eat Before You Die

Tight rolls of white flour tortilla-like pancakes cradle shreds of cabbage, veggies and cubes of firm tofu. It's all brought together with a spicy Szechuan peppercorn-infused oil. Each bite provides crunch and heat that's so addictive, you can expect to experience full-blown food-lust for weeks to come. $7.

They look like burritos, but taste like Szechuan dreams. These tightly rolled, tortilla-like pancakes cradle shreds of crispy lettuce and an oily mess of hot pepper and Szechuan peppercorn-coated beef. While these peppercorns have been known to cause some temporary digestive distress, it's a small price to pay for the euphoric heat they bring. These crunchy rolls are so addictive, you can expect to experience full-blown food lust for weeks to come. $7.

This ramen noodle dish is indeed invincible — it will crush your taste buds into submission with plentiful Szechuan chili oil and a heavy sprinkling of spice. The combo of chewy noodles and savory ground pork topped with a soft egg calls to mind a Chinese Bolognese made in Japan — and it works like some crazy cross-cultural masterpiece. $12.

There's plenty of Peking duck out there, but Royal China's is a show-stopper. Seriously, heads turn when this glistening guy travels through the dining room. If you go with the three-course Peking duck dinner, a server will carve the roast duck tableside. Next come the pillowy, white steamed buns in which you stuff slices of this beautiful, crispy-skinned bird. Dress it all up with plum sauce, shreds of green onion, and batons of cucumber for a picturesque, crispy duck-skin sandwich.

A mound of fresh egg noodles coated in a nutty and pasty dressing are unceremoniously piled onto an oval plate. Sticky, fun and spicy from a last-minute layer of crushed deep red chili flakes showered on top, each chopstick full is a seductive mixture of sweet comfort and alluring pain. SHOUT OUT: Soup dumplings. $3.95.

Chewy egg noodles are coated with a nutty dressing rife with sesame. The tangle of noodles is finished with crushed, deep red chili flakes. They're sticky, fun, and spicy - not to mention messy. Don't bother serving yourself in a smaller bowl, which is the proper way to do things. Just eat them straight from the plate. $4.25.?

STILL THE ONE: Chef Liu's spicy cold noodles were featured in the 2011 edition of 100 Dishes to Eat Before You Die

These palm-sized half-moons come bathed in a mercifully mild chili sauce, like a less-concentrated version of the chili oil found on the table at most Chinese restaurants. Each delicate dumpling skin contains a meatball-esque center of savory pork filling that bursts with natural juiciness. The only downside? The glistening pockets are so slippery they can be tricky to eat with chopsticks. Don’t let utensil woes get between you and the prize; there’s no shame in using a fork. Or your fingers. 6 pieces: $6/12 pieces: $10.